Corson Fashions in Hair [Book]

As with every project, the Corson Fashions in Hair book is an important reference and study guide into the authentic style of historical hair.

The book covers the changes in style through from the 1730s (right) through to the 1800's, just before Georgianas death.

The style seen on the left and right are more simplistic styles, worn at the beginning of the century prior to Louis XIV's tall wig movement. Both styles use soft waves around the face, drawing the hair away from the hairline. Both references also exhibit a marlborough curl - a curl brought around the shoulder introduced by the Duke of Marlborough at the turn of the century.

The designs progress at 1750 into the more elaborate detailed styles the project is aiming to reference, at the prime of Georgiana's life. The detail and height is more apparent here, again with barrel rolls being a highly important aspect of the styles. Curls again are left loose around the shoulders and face, rarely with the hair extending up from the nape into a set style.
The image to the left shows one of the more grand elaborate styles which would have been worn by character such as Georgiana and Antoinette, as well as more beautiful yet complex in its way styles such as that on the right, a sleek front framed by a section of barrel curls, and adornment at the height of the wig. Small sections of hair again extending down the neck.

These elaborate styles continue through the book referencing, with height and also volume being combined. The image to the left uses barrel curls around the neck below the each, as well as detail in the top of the hair which accommodates the shapes of the adornment pinned to the wig. A small section of hair is left at the back which is pinned from one side to the other creating an organic yet uncommon shape seen in hair within this time.

The style to the left replicates the famous boat wig worn by Marie Antoinette. The wig has since been interpreted in many different ways, with Corsons image being referenced as authentic. This crazy outgoing style was replicated by ladies who wanted to include decorative umbrellas and ornaments into their hair (right) surrounded by beautiful curls/rolls.

The adornment and height of the hair continued to grown as seen in the left hand images. A persistent record of barrel curls being involved within the hair is something to consider. This is apparent in the right hand image also where intricate styles really began to flourish into the 1770's.

Style L on the left looks at bringing that hair away from the face, into large barrel curls surrounding the face and beyond in an unsymmetrical way, similar to that of the Rococo movement. The height began to make way for more beautiful half up half down styles as the 19th century approached (see right).

The styles became more subtle in height and body and more inclusive of a rich array of texture and technique in the hair styling, with adornment such as scarves (right) of eastern materials representing exotic fashion influences. Feathers continued to be key to the decor applied to hair, being light and colourful, easy to source and wear, however considered expensive          

One of the styles championed by Georgiana from visual referencing can be seen on the right. Drawing the hair from the face into a rich ball of defined curls, with half being laid around the shoulders in a soft down style can be seen within many paintings including that of Gainsborough.

As the 19th century began hair returned to its greek styling roots (quoted from Corson) (see right). More braided and plaited styles became combined with curls to create tidy smaller hairstyles.

The Corson book is one which as mentioned I am consistently referencing to confirm authentic styles of the hair. Although I am looking to create an avant garde Rococo style, the way in which the hair should be identified as 18th century is important, as the images should be identified by historical era as well as by movement.